The Other Side of KOREA Art, food & history

Come over: A South Korean market vendor (right) waits for customers at her food stall at Namdaemun market in Seoul. (AFP/Park Ji-hwan)

A group of Indonesian journalists, including The Jakarta Post, was invited by the Korea Tourism Organization to join a familiarization trip to South Korea. A number of Asian journalists and bloggers from Malaysia, Singapore, China and Japan also took part in the three-day trip.

It was raining on the day we arrived in Seoul, South Korea — a typhoon was approaching and a festival meant to welcome autumn was canceled.

In many other cities, such a situation would turn a perfectly planned holiday into an expensive misfortune. But not in Seoul, a city so vibrant that not even bad weather could spoil its charm.

If anything — especially if you’re a pluviophile or do not mind getting a little wet in the rain — it actually makes the city even more charming.

In the past few years, Seoul has expanded its charm beyond its pretty parks and fancy shopping malls. It has actually been promoting its traditional markets as one of its tourist attractions.

At a glance, the idea may seem odd. Seoul, like other major Asian cities, is highly modern and urbanized. Only after visiting the markets did I find the idea plausible, if not brilliant — something that perhaps only Koreans could pull off.

The argument for the tourism strategy is quite simple. South Korea is known for many things, with K-pop and K-drama now being its biggest cultural exports. It is not uncommon for tourists (read: feverish K-pop fanboys and fangirls) to come to Seoul just to see their K-pop idols.

But Korea, an ancient civilization that has survived wars and destruction, is much bigger than boy band BTS and other K-pop sensations.

And one of the cheapest, fastest and most fun ways to learn about Korean history and culture is, of course, by visiting its remaining traditional markets.

South Korea has many historic traditional markets. In Seoul alone, there are three traditional markets that you may want to visit while you are there: Namdaemun Market, Tongin Market and Mangwon Market.

Namdaemun Market, opened in 1414, is the largest traditional market in the country, attracting more than 300,000 visitors every day. There you can find Korean art, clothes, cuisine and many other things in a single location.

If you’re looking for Korean souvenirs, Namdaemun is the place. But if you like to eat but do not feel like going to a fancy restaurant or are simply on a tight budget, then Tongin Market is the place you are looking for.

Memories: A sculpture pays tribute to Korean drama series Winter Sonata in Chuncheon, Gangwon province, in South Korea. The romantic drama’s huge success brought in tourists to the country. (The Jakarta Post/Ary Hermawan)

The market is an alley of small shops offering traditional Korean food like bibimbap (mixed rice with meat and assorted vegetables), kimchi (fermented vegetables), gimbap (rice roll) and japchae (stir-fried glass noodles).

There you can get a tray and buy food using traditional Korean coins called yeopjeon — a simple feature that makes you feel like you are traveling back to the old days in Korea.

Other than traditional markets, South Korea has given tourists another reason to visit the country: its vibrant theater scene, especially in October, when the city’s cultural center Daehak-ro holds its annual Daehak-ro festival.

The Korean performing arts scene had developed way before K-pop and K-drama grabbed global attention, producing many talents that have made Seoul one of the leading art and cultural centers in Asia today.

During our trip, we had the chance to watch two plays in Daehak-ro: Only You, a popular musical filled with 1990s Korean hits, and Finding Mr. Destiny, which was adapted into a rom-com in 2010. We also had the chance to watch the epic play 1446 at Theater Yong at the National Museum of Korea.

Wait, are you wondering if I speak Korean? No, I do not. Some theaters in Seoul provided English, Chinese and Japanese translations for foreign audience members.

Hot and spicy: Korean dish bibimbap, which literally means “mixed rice”, is served as a bowl of warm white rice topped with sautéed vegetables, gochujang (Korean chili pepper paste) and soy sauce with raw or fried egg and slices of meat. (www.souschef.co.uk/file)

While the subtitles might not capture the nuances of the dialogue, they still let you follow the important parts of the play even if you do not understand the language. It also gives you some of the funniest lines, though not all of them, since at some parts you could hear the rest of the audience laughing without you.

On the last two days of our trip in Seoul, the sky was clear. We took a city tour with the Artee Riders Club, which takes tourists on a rickshaw ride into the popular attractions in Seoul, including its historical villages and alleys.

The 60-minute tour ended at Gyeongbok Palace, where many Koreans could be seen strolling in their beautiful traditional dress, called hanbok. A rickshaw tour is perhaps shorter than a bus tour, but it could give you a more intimate picture of Seoul, as told by an English-speaking driver who knows the city’s history.

A city tour in Seoul is nice. But if you are a food or musical lover, the city is certainly best experienced in many of its traditional markets and theater halls.

Daehak-ro Street the mecca of plays

Together: A scene from Finding Mr. Destiny, one of the most popular musicals shown in Daehak-ro in Seoul

Daehak-ro Street is widely known as “the mecca of performance arts”, “Korea’s Broadway” and a “symbol of Korean youth and culture”.

For decades, it has served as Seoul’s cultural center. In Korean, Daehak-ro means “College Street”. It was given the moniker as it used to be the headquarters of Seoul National University — which included its College of Liberal Arts and Science and College of Law — before the university relocated its campuses.

The area is now home to 160 performance halls. It holds, according to the Korean Tourism Organization (KTO), four times the number of theaters than New York’s Broadway and three times that of London’s West End.

For Indonesian tourists, the area would perhaps remind them of Jakarta’s own cultural center, Taman Ismail Marzuki (TIM). It is more or less the same as TIM, only bigger and way more vibrant with many shows throughout the year.

October, however, is the best time to visit Daehak-ro. Throughout the month, the KTO organizes Welcome Daehak-ro, a festival in which foreign tourists can enjoy a number of musicals and plays with English subtitles.

Some of the most popular musicals are Finding Mr. Destiny, Love Comes with the Rain, Oh! While You Were Sleeping, Only You, Laundry and 1446. The ticket prices range from 15,000 won (US$13.22) to 60,000 won.

Some performances, such as Finding Mr. Destiny and Only You, are shown in small theater halls where the artists can interact with the audience.

During these shows, you cannot help but envy the local audience, because there is improvised dialogue without subtitles that always draws laughter.

Outside the halls, at Marronnier Park, some amateur artists, mostly musicians or hip-hop dancers, usually perform for free. During Welcome Daehak-ro festival, some non-verbal performances are also shown at the park.

No subtitles are provided for outdoor performances, of course, but they are still enjoyable. After all, millions of people around the world have been drawn to K-pop, even if they only know one or two Korean words.

Choose your traditional Korean markets

Traditional markets can be found in all provinces in Korea. The Korean Tourism Organization has listed at least 17 top traditional markets that you can choose to visit while in the country.

Among them are Cunccheon Jungang (Nangman) Market in Gangwon-do, Suwon Nammun Market in Gyeonggido, Singi Market in Incheon, Seomun Market in Daegu and 1913 Songjeong Station Market in Gwangju.

Each market has its own unique features. Singi Market, for instance, operates a unique payment system where buyers can use special coins called singi tongboto pay for certain merchandise.

Korean style: A South Korean shop tailor checks fabric at the hanbok (traditional dress) market in Gwangju city, South Korea. (AFP/Kim Jae-Hwan)

Seomun Market is one of the largest and most historic markets in Korea. It goes back to the age of the Joseon dynasty.

The market’s main products are textile goods and hanbok traditional costumes, but it has recently been known for its night market, which offers treats like napjakmandu (flat dumplings) and tteokbooki (spicy stir-fried rice cakes).

Nangman market, meanwhile, is known for its romantic atmosphere. Chuncheon itself is known as the “City of Romance”. The city is especially known for being the filming location of the 2002 K-drama classic Winter Sonata and the city’s romance theme can be found even in one of its traditional markets.

We had the chance to visit Nangman Market on the second day of our trip. Located just one hour away from Seoul, the market has stores that are decorated with drawings that lend a fun twist, preventing the space from feeling somber. If you explore deeper into the market, you will find various sculptures and wall murals, adding to the creative vibe of the place.

But do not forget that Nangman Market is still a market where you can find various products ranging from daily necessities to hanbok, bags, shoes, clothes, electronic appliances, jewelry and food.

A wide range of people, whether locals or foreign tourists, go there to shop.

XI’AN Showcases Chinese Culture Interwined with Islamic Traditions

Greetings to everyone: A Muslim lady on a bike takes her time for afternoon chit-chat. In Xi'an, Muslims have been part of society for 1,300 years.

Walking through the Muslim quarter of Xi’an is a fascinating adventure into an exciting mixture of Muslim and Chinese cultures.

The sound of a Chinese lady in a hijab selling fried squid and the smell of lamb skewers offered by a Chinese man with a white peci cap permeates the air. Visit the mosque where there are Islamic calligraphies under a traditional Chinese roof.

In China, the Muslims are a part of the “five great peoples of China,” along with Mongols, Tibetans, Manchus and the Han.

There are 10 Islamic Minzu (ethnic minorities) in China, including the Turko-Mongol speaking communities living in China’s northwest provinces, which include a group of Farsi speakers, the Uighur in Xinjiang, and the Hui who scattered all over China.

Located in central northwest China, Xi’an is home to Hui Muslims. The city is also famous for its tourist sites, such as Emperor Qinshuang’s mausoleum, the fortificatios of Xi’an and the Musuem of Terracotta Armies.

According to the 2012 census, Xi’an is home to more than 8 million people of which 60.000 are Muslims. Islam reached Xi’an in the second year of the Yonghui period of the Tang Dynasty (653 AD), 43 years after Islam was founded in 610 AD at that time, the Silk Road played an important roe in spreading its message across China.

The interesting part of the Hui Muslims in the Xi’an Muslim quarter is the degree of acculturation, without necessarily being assimilated into the ethnic majority, the Han.

The Hui people in Xi’an are proud of their identity boasting 1,300 years of Islamic history. At the same time, Chinese culture flows organically in their veins, making the hijab and peci the only means of Islamic identification.

One of the reason for the unique acculturation is the Hui’s dual ancestry.

“We (Hui Muslims) are the descendants of Arab men and Chinese women. If you see my pointed nose, I inherited it from my Persian ancestors,” said Hasan, the Great Mosque of Xi’an’s keeper.

Hasan also mentioned that Hui religious activities are inseparable from their Chinese heritage.

“I think around 90% of Hui Muslims find it difficult to read the Qur’an because of the dialect. Many of us memorize the compulsory verses to salat and use the Xi’an dialect to pray,” he explained.

Hasan then recited Quran verses, Al Fatiha (1), An-Nas (114) and Al-Ikhlas (112). The combination of the Xi’an dialect and Arabic fashions a deep rhytm that seeps into the subconscious in Indonesia. It might be similar to Langgam jawa, reciting Qur’an verses with a Javanese rhytm.

At the Great Mosque of Xi’an, acculturation appears robust in the form of architecture.

According to Nancy Shatzman, who wrote a research article on China’s earliest mosques, it was constructed under Emperor Hongwu during the Ming Dynasty. It consists of five courtyards and a long axial building oriented to the west or Mecca.

The establishment of the mosque is frequently attributed to China’s famous Muslim admiral Cheng Ho.

No bacon, no problem: Halal food, or Qingzhen, is easily spotted across Xi’an’s Muslim Quarter. In line with Islamic lawa, pork is forbidden. Thus, Muslims in Xi’an tend to substitute pork with lamb.

Cheng, who also built a mosque in Nanjing, is known for spreading Islam in south and West Asia, Africa and Indonesia.

Hassan mentioned that the city government supported the mosque’s development, including its restoration if needed.

“We have a good relationship with the government because they support the development of the building. Even during the Ming dynasty the emperor supported the effort to build the complex,” Hasan said.

Calligraphic inscriptions are found nearly everywhere around the mosque’s courtyard, such as Quranic verses, prophetic traditions, the bismillah (the opening), the shadah (Islamic faith statements), the six beliefs of Islam, the divine attribute of Allah and the angels.

The Chinese architectural style of the mosque is represented by a temple-like compound around the courtyard. Inside, it is ornamented with pillars and beams decorated wit hhorizontal Chinese-inscribed boards.

Hence, the Great Mosque of Xi’an represents a unique combination of Arabic culture and china architecture.

Another part of acculturation can be seen in the food.

The quarter serves unlimited halal food. In Chinese, halal food is called qingzhen, translated as pure food. Hui Muslims prepare food according to Islamic  laws of permission and prohibition ,meaning that pork and liquor are forbidden.

Abstaining from pork and alcohol is a sign of value internalization in their daily activities.

As a substitute, Xi’an Muslims eat lamb and seafood. Lamb is nearly everywhere in the quarter, ranging from skewers to noodle soup.

The Han culture is also present in the way food is prepared. In halal restaurants, it is common to divide food into hot and cold categories. The eating habits resemble Han culture, which maintains the balance between food components and a healthy lifestyle.

Like many Muslims, rituals are an essential tool in maintaining religiosity.

Hui Muslims in Xi’an celebrate Eid ul fitr and Eid ul Adha with big feasts and other cultural events.

“We celebrate Eid ul Fitr and Eid ul Adha every year. I also took a pilgrimage to Mecca. I went there in 2013,” Hasan said.

Visiting the Muslim quarter in Xi’an is indeed an experience, especially when learning more about Islam and china. For most people, including Indonesians, it would seem far-fetched that Islam and Chinese culture can coexist, especially under a communist regime.

However, successful acculturation does not necessarily marginalize the minority because the Hui have shown that they can maintain and retain their ethnic social ties (Chinese culture) as well as their ethnic religiosity.

Devotion: A man prays inside the Great Mosque of Xi’an

Entrance fee: It costs 25 yuan to enter the Great Mosque of Xi’an. Legend says the Great Mosque was founded by the naval admiral Cheng Ho, who had big influence spreading Islam in Indonesia.

Sawahlunto Tours Destination Steeped in History

WHEN TOURISTS used to ask about places to visit in West Sumatra, one of the most common answers was the city of Bukittinggi. Today though, that answer includes Sawahlunto.

The next question would then be: “What is  there to see in Sawahlunto?” And the answer is that the city has as many – if not more – tourist objects than Bukittinggi.

Sawahlunto, like Bukittinggi, is a small city, but it has a rich historical heritage. It is home to seven museums and old buildings from the Dutch-colonial era that are quite well preserved. They all reflect that past way of life in the coal-mining town.

In 2015 Sawahlunto was shortlisted on the tentative UNESCO World Heritage list as an Old Coal Mining Town. And in 2019, the government will include Sawahlunto in its list of proposed sites to the World Heritage Committee.

The list will be expanded to include the remains of the supporting infrastructure for coal production in the 19^th century. These include a 155.5-km railway crossing six regencies and towns in West Sumatra, all the way to Teluk Bayur Seaport, which used to be called Emma Haven, a docking location for coal bound for exports.

Sawahlunto is situated in a valley. It was founded by the Dutch in 1888 when a big reserve of high-quality coal was discovered in the area. Until today, the coal is still mined in small volumes; large-scale mining activities, or deep mining, were halted in the early 2000s.

Mining-related building boasting Dutch style architecture are common sight in the region, including the main office of the coal mining company founded in 1916 and now the icon of Sawahlunto. There are also three silos in the form of giant concrete cylinders 40 metes in height that were used to store coal.

Tourists can also visit the Cultural Building, which in the colonial era was dubbed the Ball House. It hosted billiard tournament s and cultural events. Another building is a cooperative building called Ons Belang. Constructed in 1920, it was used as the office of the cooperative whose members were the Dutch and the Indo-Dutch. Hotel Ombilin, meanwhile,was constructed in 1918 and used to house Dutch mining engineers, and the graceful St. Barbara Church was built in 1920.

But one of the more popular sites among tourists is the Mbah Soero mining tunnel, the area’s first coal mine that opened in 1898.

The mining tunnel’s attractions include a sad story of the “chained people”, thousands of convicts sent to West Sumatera from prisons in Java and other regions in Indonesia. They were shipped by the Dutch colonial government, their feet in chain, to work as miners. Many of these chained people lost their lives in Sawahlunto.

Tourist can enter the tunnel accompanied by a guide for only 56 US$ cents per person. Outside the tunnel is a statue of the chained people, and in the building’s Info Box, tourists can view various tools used by the miners.

Related to Mbah Soero is the Goedang RAnsoem Museum. Constructed in 1918, it was used as a soup kitchen for mine workers. Visitors can see the cooking utensils used in that era, including stoves and cauldrons.

The Train Museum, meanwhile, is located where Sawahlunto Station used to be. This is the only train museum on Sumatra and the second in Indonesia, after the first one in Ambarawa. The musem houses a collection of train equipment and devices used in Sawahlunto from 1918. In the yard, visitors can view the legendary locomotive dubbed “Mak Item”, and a wooden carriage that reminds us of the American carriages from the Wild West.

In front of the coal mining company building, PT Bukit Asam, is the Ombilin Coal Mining Museum, which is managed by Bukit Asam’s Ombilin Mining Unit. The museum also functions as the company’s documentation and archive center.

In front of the museum, viistors are greeted by the statue of Ir. J.W.Ijzermen, a Dutchman who held the Ombilin Coal mining project in Sawahlunto until it become productive in 1892. Inside are pictures of Willem Hendrik de Greve, who discovered the coal reserve in Sawahlunto in 1867.

Three other museums in the city are not directly related to the history of Sawahlunto, but they can offer visitors an enjoyable day of culture and entertainment. They are the Etno Kayu Paint Museum, which display modern paintings and wooden crafts; Museum Seni Musik, which houses a collection of musical instruments from various regions in Indonesia and abroad; and Museum Tari, displaying a trove of accessories for Minangkabau traditional dances.

 Tourists can visit all seven museums and historical buildings in one day on foot as they are located in the Old Town area.

Sawahlunto also has family entertainment facilities located some 12 kms from Old Town. One of these is Kandi Zoo, wehre visitors can not only see animals but also paly paintball and engage in other outbound activities.

Every December, to commemorate its anniversary, Sawahlunto holds a horse race at its 1,400 –m track, the second-longest in the country. The arena can accommodate 30,000 spectators.

Other family-friendly destinations are the Rantih tourism village, Fruit Garden and Waterboom Waterpark, as well as sites to enjoy the area’s beautiful scenery, such as Cemara Peak and Polan Peak.

Also in Sawahlunto is the grave of national hero Mohammad Yamin. The grave is situated in Talawi, 15 km from the center of town. Yamin was one of the early concept writes of Indonesia’s ideology and a proclaimer of the historic Youth Pledge.

Sawahlunto is only 95 kilometers from Padang and 88 kilometers from Bukittinggi. If visitors don’t have time to stay the night, they can still enjoy what the town has to offer by making a one-day trip from either of these cities in a rental car.

Backpackers can easily visit Sawahlunto on a budget. From Minangkabau Ekspres airport train to Simpang Haru Station (the last station). Currently tickets for the Minangkabau Ekspres cost only $0.8.

From the station, visitors can walk 350 meters or take an ojek (motorcycle taxi) t oa minibus shelter. From there, they take a minibus to Sawahlunto in Tugu Api. The bus fare is 1.3$ and the minibus is available every hour from morning until late afternoon. The minibus stops at a terminal in the center of Sawahlunto, and visitors can stay at one of the budget homestays that are abundant in the area.

 [Sources : by The Jakarta Post |Words: Syofiardi Bachyul Jb]

Nuart Sculpture Park | Where art is for everyone

IF YOU LIVE in Jakarta, Bandung or Bali, most likey you would have come across an artwork created by Nyoman Nuarta. Among his pieces are the Garuda statue at Soekarno-Hatta International Airport, the Arjuna statue just outside Monas and the hand sculpture in Setraduta housing complex in Bandung, to name a few.

Born on Nov. 14, 1951, this Balinese artist does not look like he is slowing down, escpecially with his latest work, the Garud Wisnu Kencana, which will stand up to153 meters tall in Ungasan, Bali, and is due to be completed in August 2018 as a gift to the nation. It is so tall, especially compared to the surrounding resorts and residential area, you could see it from a landing plane.

Nyoman Nuarta’s Balines roots might explain his talent, with Bali culturally known to be home to stone and wood scultors, however Nuarta decided to choose a different media: copper, brass and steel. Being a big fan of his publicly displayed art, it was only a matter of time before I visited Nuart Sculpture Park located within the Setraduta complex in Bandung.

Living up to my expectation, the gallerycum-park was beautiful. Entering its gates, we were welcomed by a few works in his signature style. Nyoman Nuarta, in my opinion, has this gothic eerie feel to his work whether the piece is made of metal or other material. His art contains a lot of emotion and movement, not to mention detail that could lead one to marvel for hours. He alwasys has a concept behind his work, which in the art world, to my understanding, is not a necessity. There’s a story behind every piece of art.

Roaming around the gallery shows the wide skill range and creativity of Nyoman Nuarta. Many of the pieces are inspired by his family, especially the strong women around him, the environment and important events. The faces of his children and grandchildren are muses, which clearly pop up in his work. A mother orangutan holding her baby amongst tree stumps tells the story of the dying species along with its environment. One of the most prominent pieces is “Nightmare”, located in the middle of the plastered indoor gallery, which reminds us of the women mutilated not long after the 1998 incident in Jakarta.

“Moral of the story: We should cherish the women in our lives that have given us life,” says one the interns on duty that day.

Listening to the stories behind some of the pieces I realize that despite the work being made of strong elements, there is a deeply sensitive man caring and observing the world that we live in today. Well, there is also a cute seemingly-fluffy sheep made of metal, inspired during a trip to New Zealand, which doesn’t necessarily need any explation.

The gallery itself is a piece of art.

Covered top to bottom in plaster and wood, as is the current trend for houses, cafes and restaurants. It balances out the details of Nuarta’s work and creates the perfect canvas for its shadows. It is also a well-designed place as a the spaces are not just room after room, but more of an open space where you can see most of the artwork. The exterior façade is far from plain, decorated with blue glass combined with detailed walls. In addition, there is an amphitheater for art performances, surrounded by a lush green environment overlooking a gushing river. Amongst the greenery is some of Nuarta’s larger works, including my favorite, a blue whale with its disconnected tail not too far from its head. The sporadic artwork becomes a kind of hunt, as you don’t know where you’ll find the next piece. Not to forget the restaurant, where visitors can take a break, because surely the park will take a lot of time. Whether you enjoy art and Nuarta’s work, or not, the park has a way to entertain anyone who visits.

And of course, Nuart Sculpture Par has a souvenir shop, probably unlike any other. Aside from books and park memorabilia, the shop also offers various and interesting artworks and wearable items such as clothes, watches, notebooks and wallets from local artist. So there’s a little bit for everyone, leaving us to believe that art is for everyone. [Sources : by The Jakarta Post |Words: Murni A Ridha]

Haven of Exotic Beaches

Gunung Kidul, located in the southeastern part of Yogyakarta, has long been known as a haven for tourists in search of beaches, which span over 70 kms, from the west to the east, along its southern coastline.

Beaches in Gunung Kidul offer more than just breathtaking views. Visitors can also relax by snorkeling, checking out coral reef and decorative fish under clear waters or just playing on the white sand.

“It’s really fun, watching fish swimming here and there under the water. I couldn’t help but try to touch them,” visitor Dian Retnanindyah of Sleman regency said after enjoying snorkeling in Sadranan Beach waters, recently.

Sadranan is among beaches in Gunung Kidul that continue to lure travelers. Along with Ngandong and Slili beaches, Sadranan is suitable for snorkeling and rowing.

Other beaches in the area have their own charms and appeal, serving as a magnet for travelers from far and wide.

Baron is also popular among fishermen. As the “entrance gate” to other beaches in the area, visitors can see fishermen returning to shore with their catch, apart from the beautiful scenery of the hills that surround the area.

Visitors can also find and underground spring that directly goes into the sea. People are also welcome to buy fresh fish that can be cooked on site to enjoy right away or to takeaway.

Next to Baron is Kukup, which offers an overlay of white sands and scenery of colorful decorative fish and other sea biota. What makes this beach special is the coral hill with an observation post on top of it where visitors can observe the beauty of the surrounding panorama as well as of offshore activities in the distance.

Long coasaatline

Sepanjang is one of just a few beaches in Gunung Kidul that  has a long coastline. With an overlay of white sand, sports overs will see it as the perfect place to play beach volleyball. Facilities to play so are available on the site.

Drini, which is located next to Sepanjang, is named after the numerous drini trees that grow on the beach. The trees are believed to have to have the capability to get rid of snakes. Fish auctions are also held and an array of culinary treats are available from vendors. Krakal Beach, next to Drini

Also offers an overlay of white sands, where visitors can enjoy sunrise and the scenery of fish and other sea biota during high tide. Sunrise can also be enjoyed from Pok Tunggal Beach.

Other beaches offering beautiful white sands as well as calm and clear waters are connecting Ngrenehan. Nobaran and Nguyahan in Saptosari district. Although one is located next to the other, these three beaches offer different charms.

If in Ngobaran visitors can visit a Hindu temple built on the beach, in Ngrenehan and Nguyahan, visitors can enjoy beautiful panorama, buy fresh fish from vendors, or enjoy various seafood items on offer at food stalls.

Those with a desire to take part in outbound activities can pay a visit to Sundak, where local instructors are on standby. Visitors can also take a dip in the water and choose to just relax on the beach.

Gunung Kidul tourism Agency’s planning subdivision head, Supriyanta, said Gunung Kidul regency was home to beaches, but only 40 had been developed for tourism purposes.

“Of these 40 beaches, 28 have been fully developed, meaning that they already have the required facilities as tourist destinations,” said Supriyanta, adding have among the must-have facilities included parking areas, restrooms, food outlets and souvenir stalls.

Thanks to the development of access roads heading to these beaches, Gunung Kidul has for the last few years been enjoying a steady increase in tourist visits to the regency by up to 400,000 tourists a year.

If in2015 it saw only some 2.2 million tourists, in 2016 it saw 2.6 million of them. It saw a further increase to 3.2 million in 2017, of which some 21,600 were foreign tourists, thus exceeding the target of receiving 2.69 million of tourists the same year.

Supriyanta said the majority tourists visiting Gunung Kidul had chosen beaches as their main destinations, especially those on the central part of the regency’s coastline.

How to go there

To get the beaches, visitors can take different routes from Yogyakarta (Yogyakarta-Pathuk-Wonosari-Baron); from Bantul (Parangtritis-Trowono-Kemadang-Kukup); from Wonogiri (Pracimantoro-Baran Rongkop-Jerukwudel-Jepitu-Wediombo) or (Pracimantoro-Girisubo-Sadeng-Wediombo); and from Kalten (Ngawen-Semin-Karangmojo-Semanu-Panggul-Jepitu-Wediombo).

BULL RUN

Karapan Sapi is a traditional annual event that happens only in Madura

ON A RECENT visit to Bali, I was lucky to see a one-of-a kind event called Karapan Sapi, a bull race that happens in Madura, a small island located across the Madura Strait to the northeast of Java Island, know for this scenic beauty. This traditional sport has been around for several centuries and happens at the district level, regency level and finally to the residence level, with the finals, wehre the competitors vie for the President Cup in the city of Pamekasan. The race typically happens  during the months of July to October.

History calling

The origins of this race are traced to Sapudi Island in Madura, and there are two interesting stories behind its history. One school of thought believes that the race was used by ulema, while another says this race was created by an important man from Sapudi Island to make the soil fertile by plowing.

Prince Kantadur from the local kingdom of Sumenep in the 13^th century also helped popularize the race, and in the 1930s. Dutch rulers did their bit to organize and promote the sport across the East Java province. Interestingly, not all bulls make the cut to quality to be race ready.

It is said that the race bulls are the ones whose chest shape narrows from the upper area t othe lower area, have humped necks, short horns and a big strong body with long back, tight nails and along tail. Their daily diet includes, a mix of herbs, honey and eggs, which increases by several portions before a race. And yes, bulls ar also fiven a relaxing massage as well so that they can perform at top speed.

Sporty vibes

When I arrived at the venue, which happens to be a large open field fenced all around, there was a palpable undercurrent of exicitement. Row of chairs had been arranged at one end with a lot of local food – boiled peanuts, sweet potatoes and more. The racing event is evidently popular with locals and is quite a unique experience for tourists, making this a win-win for all sides.

For local especially, this event has prestige value because the winning bull owner stands to gain much socially and financially. Before the race begins, each team parades their bulls to the liting tunes of Madura’s traditional instrument, saronen, and local school children performing the traditional percot (whip) dance.

The participating bulls themselves are also given a makeover with rich clothing, flowery ribbons and other decorations as part of the parade. Just before the race begins, these are exchanged for more practical gear.

The race

Each team comprises a tukang ambeng (a person who releases the harness), a tukang gubra (a person to shout from the side of the race track), a tukang nyandak (a person to stop the ubll at the finish line) and a tukang tanja (a person to lead the bull after the race).

The race involves a pair of bulls attached to a standing wooden cart, on which a jockey stands to steer the bulls through the race. The jockeys are usually young boys who control the speed of the bull, locally called tukang tongko. The 100-meter-long race track usually takes 10 to 15 second to complete amidst the onlocker’s wild cheers.

One the flag drops, the jockey starts poking the bulls with a sharpened bamboo and tries to simultaneously keep his balance. The bull whose forelegs cross the finish line first wins the race, which has a series of elimination heats. So the next time you are in Madura, be sure to check out Karapan Sapi.

Escape to Idylic Belitung Island

FIRST gaining popularity after hitting the big screen in 2008’s award-winning ‘The Rainbow Troop’, Belitung island in Bangka-Belitung province is recognized for tis white sandy beaches, Stonehenge-like granite rocks formations and lush environs.

In the past five years, the island’s popularity has increased, as it became known as the birthplace of former Jakarta governor Basuki “Ahok” Tjahaja Purnama.

I had high expectation of Belitung after seeing thousands of pictures on my Instagram feed. I foolishly assumed that the island would be similar to Bali or Lombok. Imagine my surprise when I was greeted by empty asphalt roads and a quiet ambience.

Evry, my local guide-slash-driver, told me that there was only one department store on the island, illustrating how different the island was from my imagination.

During my visit, I discovered that many tourists come to Belitung to see Laskar Pelangi’s shooting locations, Ahok’s childhood home and for island hoping. After spending three days on the island, I had to admit that Belitung’s different envirionment was perfect for the much-needed break I was longing for.

The peaceful morning

 I spent the first day exploring East Belitung regency, which is where Laskar Pelangi was filmed and the Andrea Hirata Literary Museum and Ahok’s childhood home are located.

The next day, I woke up at 7 a.m. As I opened the curtain, I was greeted by sunshine and fresh sea breeze coming through my window. Although, I was staying ner the town center, the BW Suite Belitung hotel in Tanjung pandan had the luxury of ocean view rooms.

I quickly got myself ready and headed down to the loby to fin Evry. He suggested we make a quick stop at Kong Jie Coffee for breakfast.

The coffee shop was packe with people eating traditional breakfast meals, such as nasi gemok (rice and fried fish wrapped in simpur leaves) and banana fritters while enoying a cup of java. Despite being crowded, time seemed to move slower. The cutomers were not in a hurry. They slowly sipped their coffee while chating with friends or playing with their mobile phones.

The atmosphere was so laid-back and it was relaxing to experience it, especially for someone who lives in th city like my self.

I wished I could have spent longer time enjoying the coffee shop. But I had to move on to Tanjung kelayang Beach to rent a boat to island hopping.

Away from reality

I spent almost two hours inside the car. The jorney was smooth, as the asphalt road was empty. Prior to arriving at our destination, I saw housed that had similar architecture and were surrounded by huge yards. I rarely sawa people in front of the houses. Some houses had their doors left wide open ,showing how safe the area was.

Travel tips

1.       Paying by credit or debit card could be considered safer and more convenient than carrying cash.

2.       Save time and money; when traveling out of country, paying by card in local currency can offer a competitive exchange rate.

3.       Make two copiex of important travel documents, including your passport, in case of emergency.

4.       Notify your band card issuer about your travel plans to help monitor for fraud.

5.       Set alerts so you can keep track of spending on your phone.

6.       Data roaming charges can skyrocket while abroad so set up your cellphone to avoid international dat roaming or ensure you have an international plan.

7.       Keep a list of important contacts in case your phone is lost or stolen.

8.       Check out fun local events such as festivals and concerts in the city you’re visiting.

As I arrived at Tanjung Kelayang Beach, I could again smell the fresh air. After paying Rp 400.000 to rent a boat, I changed my clothes and climbed into the speedboat.

The first five minutes were heavenly. The warm sea breeze touched my face and the wind blew through my hair. I could hear the sound of crashing waves while enjoying the sight of the celar blue sky and crystal-clear water.

“This is Batu Garuda,” said Evy, waking me from my daydream. He pointed to a giant rock formation and said, “You can see the shape resembles the Garuda bird.”

“You cannot go on the rocks,” said Evry, asking me to take a picture from the boat.

I started to recognize the shape and took some pictures.

We then move to Batu Berlayar Island. The small island is filled with Stonehenge like rock formations that are icons of Belitung. Here, I finally saw how popular Belitung has become as a tourist destination. The ilse was filled with visitors trying to take nice pictures. It took me a while to find a quiet spot. I got carried away and began posing like an Instagram influencer.

 After feeling satisfied, we went to our next destination, Lengkuas Island. The island is known for its lighthouse, which was built in 1882. Visitors can climbup to third level to take in the view of the turquoise below.

I felt disappointed because I could not go to the top to see a bird’s eye view of the island. But the good news was, Evry said, I could go snorkeling off the eastern and western shores of Lengkuas Island.

“We should buy biscuits,” Evry said, explaining that we could feed the fish while snorkeling.

Although the corals were not as colorful as the ones in Komodo Island or Raja Ampat, snorkeling in Belitung was not a disappointment. Once I entered the water, holding the biscuits, I was instantly surrounded by fish.

I spent around 20 minutes feeding the fish and enjoying the underwater scenery. Then I decided it was time to move on to the next stop.

The boat brought me to Pasir Island. Although it is called an island, Pasir Island is actually a sandbar that is onely visible during low tide. If you lucky, you might see large pnkish starfish. I felt like I was staying in the middle of the ocean.

As I climbed back on the boat, Every said that our next stop would be special, as it was quieter than Lengkuas and Batu Layar Islands.

He was not llying. There were only a few people on Kelayang Island. It was clearly the perfect beach for sunbathing.

It was so peaceful and I felt like I was on a private beach. However, the weather started getting warmer, so it was time for Gede Kepayang Island comes with changing rooms, a restaurant and power stations. However, visitors need to pay Rp 20.000 per person to enjoy the facililities.

The restaurant serves freshly caught fish grilled with local spices along with free-flow of coffee and tea. As I enjoyed the udang saus Padang (prawns in spicy sauce), I grabbed my mobile phone and discovered that I had been busy exploring the islands for around for hours.

It was the first time I had checked WhatsApp that day. I felt so happy to be able to escape from my normal routine for a while [Source : The Jakarta Post magazine |Edittion Jul 2017 | by : Jessica Valentina]