Chennai, India

Executive summary by darmansjah

WHY GO?  While it may not boast the money of Mumbai or the buzz of Bangalore, Chennai does feel friendlier than most cities its size. Known for its religious centre, monumental architectures, shimmering beaches, beautiful landscapes and friendlier people, Chennai can offer quite an experience.

WHEN TO GO. Visit Chennai in December, January or February, when the weather is generally pleasant. Tamil Nadu is known for its colourful festivals. The biggest celebration in Chennai is Ponggal, which happens in January.

HOW TO GO. Chennai International Airport is located in Tirusalam, 7 kilometres  south of Chennai. Both Air India and Jet Airways fly there direct from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.

See

Best For Museums, The Government Museum is an excellent all-in-one museum, offering an archaeological section representing all the major South Indian periods, a natural history and zoology section, and a superb collection of Chola art (91 44 2819 3238; chennaimuseum.org; 486 Pantheon Rd; 9.30am-5pm Sat-Thu; Indian/foreigner US$0.30/US$5).

Best For Temples. Chennai’s most impressive temple, the ancient Shiva Kapaleeshwarar Temple is constructed in the Dravidian style – rainbow-coloured gateway tower, pavilions in front of the temple (Kutchery Rd, Mylapore).

Best For Culture. George Town is the wholesale centre of Chennai. Many backstreets are entirely given over to selling one particular type of merchandise as they have for hundreds of years – paper goods in Anderson St, fireworks in Badrian. Fascinating even if you’re not shopping for anything.

Best For Relaxation. If you need to unwind, go for a 45-minute abhyangam (oil treatment; US$13) or an extended ayurvedic treatment at Ayush. It also offers one-hour yoga classes (US$3) or 21-daycourses (US$25) (91 44 6519 5195; leverayush.com; 6 Khader Nawaz Khan Rd).

the basilica of the national shirine of St Thomas

Best For Churches. The Basilica of the National Shrine of St Thomas is built over the tomb of Saint Thomas the Apostle, who came to India in the year 52 AD. The underground chapel allows pilgrims to pray at the tomb and tourist to visit (91 44 2498 5455; santhomechurch.com; 38 San Thome High Rd).

Eat & Drink

Serving up quality vegetarian Indian food with high standards of hygiene, Saravana Bhavan is probably Chennai’s best known restaurant chain, with outlets all over the city. Meals at Saravana Bhavans run around US$1 (saravanabhavan.com).

Set in a stunning lemon coloured, colonial-era building. Amethyst is comfortably posh. The lush garden setting and patio dining takes the cake for restaurant ambience. Expect comfy couches, antique furniture and afternoon tea with lovely cucumber-and-mmint chutney sandwiches (91 44 235 3581; 14 Padmavathi Rd; meals US$2-US$5).

Murugan idli Kadai-those in the know generally agree this particular branch of the small chain serves some of the best idli and South Indian meals in town. We heartily concur (91 44 4202 5076; 77 GN Chetty Rd, T Nagar; dishes from US$0.60).

The meat-centric Copper Chimney a wide berth, but others will drool over the yummy North Indian tandoori dishes served among plush furnishings (91 44 2811 5770; 74 Cathedral Rd, Teynampet; mains US$3-US$6; lunch & dinner).

From the finely crafted furniture and calming ambience to the attentive service and superbly presented food, Benjarong. Tahi restaurant is an experience. Most mains are around US$4 (91 44 2432 2640; 537 TTK Rd, Alwarpet; mains US$3-US$10; lunch & dinner).

Essential

While Chennai’s auto rickshaws are ubiquitous, the drivers tend to be unscrupulous, forgo the meter and overcharge both foreigners and locals alike. If you do get on one, negotiate the rate beforehand. Alternatively, Chennai’s bus system and efficient MRTS trains are worth getting to know.

Sleep

Travelers agree that Paradise Guest House boasts some of the best-velue digs on its street. Expect sparkling white tiles, a breezy rooftop, friendly staff and hot water (91 44 2859 4252; paradisegh@hotmail.com; 17 Vallabha Agraharam St; s/d/tr from US$5/US$6/US$8).

The splashes of colour adorning the outside of the Royal Regency cannot be missed. It’s business-like inside, sparsely furnished and offering the minimum needed for a solid right’s sleep (91 44 2561 1777; royalregency.co.in; 26-27 Poonamallee High Rd, rooms from US$47).

At its price, it’s like Residency Towers doesn’t know what a good thing it has going; five-star elegance with al ot of personality. Every floor is decorated differently, but rooms have sliding doors in front of windows to block out light and noise, dark-wood furniture and thoughtful touches (91 44 2815 6363 theresidency.com; Sir Theagaraya Nagar Rd, T Nagar; s/d from US$100/US$115).

Raintree is an ecofriendly lodge: floors are mad of bamboo, waste-water is treated and used for gardening, and electricity conservation holds pride of place. The minimalist rooms are some of the most stylish and comfortable around, and the rooftop infinity pool has a wooden terrace with sea views (91 44 2430 4050; raintreehotels.com; 120 St mary’s Rd, Mylapore; s/d from US$155/US$175).

Uberchic boutique hotel Park Hotel flaunts stylish elements like frosted-glass partitions, towering indoor bamboo gardens and oversized doors. Rooms come with funky bathrooms separated from the boudoir by an opaque glass wall (91 44 4267 6000; theparkhotels.com; 601 Anna Salai; s/d from US$225/US$265).

Long Beach. During an early morning or evening stroil along the 13km sandy stretch of Marina Beach, you’ll pass cricket matches, kids flying kites, fortune-tellers, fish markets and families enjoying the sea breeze. This is the second longest beach in the world. However, due to strong undercurrents along the shoreline, swimming is not allowed.

Spiritual Retreat. Between the Adyar River and the coast, the Theosophical Society provides one of the few peaceful retreats from the city. The sprawling grounds contain a church, mosque, Buddhist shirine and Hindu Temple. There is a huge variety of trees, including a famed 400-year old banyan tree whose branches offer reprieving shade for over 40,000 sqft (Lattice Bridge Rd).

Tamil Architecture. The Valluvar Kottam Memorial honours the Tamil poet. Thiruvaluvar and his classic poem, the Thirukural, which provided a moral code for millions of followers. The three-level memorial replicates ancient Tamil architecture and boasts an immense 35m chariot, an enormous auditorium and inscriptions of the Thirukural’s 1330 couplets (Valluvar Kottam High Rd, kodambakkam).

South India & Kerala travel guide has a chapter on Tamil Nandu & Chennai, which can also be download from TravelerGuidance.Blogspot.Com. more practical details can be found online at tamilnadutourism.org