CROATIA

Executive summary by darmansjah

‘O island of rugged and white shores / appearing in our dreams, washed in foam of the sun / Transgressing noisy waves, spreading enchanted blue / As far as the eye can see.’ Ive Mirosevic Barcos, poet.

With more than a thousand islands scattered along Croatia’s coastline, a sailing trip here is one of the great maritime experience. But there’s plenty to draw you inland too; forests, riverside villages and historic architecture.

Fly into Frankfurt or Munich before connecting to Split’s Kastela or Resnik Airport with Croatia Airlines

Split’s medieval streets are best explored on foot, but there is a good local bus network connecting the city to outlying districts. Download maps and timetables at Find-Croatia.Com

The Croatian tourist board website also has useful information : www.croatia.hr or further reading on Lonely Planet’s Croatia guide includes a chapter on Split and the island of Central Dalmatia.

Diocletian’s Palace is one of the world’s most impressive Roman ruins, with soaring arches and towers. And far from being a deserted monument, it is a living complex filled with shops, restaurants, bars and churches (free).

Family-run Hotel Jupiter has rooms ranging from dorms sleeping up to 10 to doubles with shared bathrooms. And the location is unbeatable, near Diocletan’s mausoleum in the palace complex (from US$45). 

For a good, quick meal, do as the locals do and grab a burek – a delicious heavy pastry stuffed with meat or cheese and served with yoghurt – along wit ha typically strong Croatian coffee at the Burek Bar (from US$2.50; Domaldova 13).

In warm weather, Luxor Cafe sets up cushions on the 1,700-year old steps of the main square in Diocletian’s Palace, so you can relax with a coffee or a cocktail while listening to the live music usually playing nearby (Sv. Ivana 11, Peristil).

The Archaeological Museum north of the city centre is the oldest in Croatia, focusing on the Roman and early Christian era, including a look at excavations in nearby Salona, th former Roman capital of Dalmatia (US$3.50).

On a quiet residential street 15 minutes’ walk from the old city and harbor is Hotel Consul, with smart rooms and a terrace restaurant. It provides a bit of peace away from the busy city nearby (from US$155).

If you’re looking for traditional Dalmatian dining, the atmospheric Konoba Kod Jose might just be what you’re after, with its candlelit interior, and an excellent seafood and pasta-based menu (mains from US$9.50; Sredmanuska 4).

The very cool Ghetto Club attracts an arty crowd wit hits colourful murals painted on the walls and intimate, underground feel. Stay in the brightly decorated indoor bar or enjoy a drink in the relaxed centuries-old courtyard (Dosud 10).

Attending a performance at the Croatian National Theatre will not only give you a chance to see high-quality ballet and opera, but will allow you to experience the theatre’s grand architecture as intended (from US$9.50).

The Vestibul Palace is tucked in next to the Emperor’s Chambers in the heart of Diocletian’s Palace. The setting may be ancient, but this boutique hotel offers the latest in designer style (rooms from US$170).

The creation of popular local chef Zlatko Marinovic, Nostromo has an intimate, art-lined interior, and its location by the fish market means it serves the freshest seafood in town (mains from US$19).

To sample delicious Croatian wines, head town to the Enocteca Terra cellar wine bar. Choose from a wide selection of local tipples, served with Dalmatian tapas under the vaulted stone ceiling (6 Prilaz brace Kaliterna).