Return of the Kirschtorte

Black forest gateau, the mainstay of any 70s sweet trolley, is making a comeback in its German homeland. Nowhere makes it better than Café Schafer in Triberg; the writer met chef Claus Schafer, the heir to the original 1905 recipe, who revealed its secrets:

Cream & Kirsch

Whip the cream until silky, blend in gelatin and two shots of quality kirsch. Mine is 56 per cent and from a local distillery.

Cherries

Tangy morello cherries offset the cream’s sweetness. The compote needs cherries sugar, cherry juice and a pinch of cinnamon.

Layering

Spread compote and cream onto the bottom layers of sponge, and press on the top. Drizzle with kirsch, and cool in the fridge.

Finishing touch

Spread the gateau with cream, then decorate with piped cream, cherries, chocolate shavings and icing sugar.