Bagan, Myanmar

Executive summary by darmansjah

BAGAN is a stunning archaeological site in Myanmar that forces visitors into a time capsule and transports them back a millennium. Over 2,000 Buddhist temples and Stupas are spread over this 42 square kilometers plain, making this the site with the highest concentration of such buildings in the world. It is simply mind-boggling to imagine that this number was once closer to 13,000 before the invasion of the Mongols in the 13^th century. Unlike other similar sites in Southeast Asia such as Angkor, Bagan is free from the tourist horde and its accompanying annoyances. In fact, Bagan’s emptiness can be surreal at times. One of the best ways to explore Bagan is on bicycle. Rental shops are not difficult to locate and prices are definitely affordable. Experiencing Bagan on bicycle also allows you to appreciate the sheer scale of the site.

You can get to Bagan’s Nyaung U Airport from Yangoon International Airport on Myanma Aiways, Air Bagan and Yangon Airways. To fly to Yangon from Singapore, fly with Jetstar, Myanmar Airways International, or Silk Air. From Kuala Lumpur can fly on AirAsia, Malaysia Airlines and Myanmar Airways International. All visitors to Bagan are required to pay $10 entrance fee.

Kaday Aung Hotel enjoys a great location that is close to some of the best temples in Bagan. The hotel also has a pool and a garden in its premises and the outdoor restaurant boasts live music shows (from $21).



A spiritual awakening in Myanmar

The once isolated nation at the culturally rich crossroads of India and China is a land that imbues even the most jaded traveler with a sense of wonder.

In Myanmar, government reforms since 2010 and the election of democracy activist (and Nobel Peace Prize recipient) Aung San Suu Kyi to parliament have propelled a profoundly gracious land, formerly known as Burma, onto the world stage. It’s about time.

Decades of reclusion have preserved a vibrant culture deeply steeped in Buddhism; especially outside the major urban centers of Yangon and Mandalay, daily life has remained largely untouched by Western trends. Rudyard Kipling’s words in Letters From the East still ring true: “This is Burma and it will be quite unlike any land you know about.”

The best Burmese travel experiences require a bit of planning, but the rewards are great—especially in Bagan, the arid, pagoda-studded plain along the Ayeyarwady River in Upper Burma where the first Burmese Buddhist kings, their courtiers, and other merit-seeking patrons built thousands of religious monuments from the 11th to 13th centuries. According to Burma scholar Donald Stadtner, these 16 square miles—despite the misguided restoration of some temples in the 1990s—rank among Southeast Asia’s most significant sacred ancient sites.

Secure an early morning bird’s-eye view of the monuments by booking a Balloons Over Bagan hot-air-balloon-and-sparkling-wine trip; profits fund community service projects on the ground. Spend the afternoon exploring dusty trails by bicycle. At sunset, find a perch and gaze over the panorama of castle-like structures shimmering in the golden light. —Ceil Miller Bouchet

Travel Tips

When to Go: Late October-March (dry season)

Relevant Dates: Balloons Over Bagan operates daily October through March.

Where to Stay: Head north of Old Bagan to Nyaung U for budget-friendly options like Aung Mingalar Hotel. In Bagan, the Hotel at Tharabar Gate is close to the main gate of the ancient east wall. South, in New Bagan, view temples and pagodas from your balcony at Kumudara Hotel.

How to Get Around: Horse-drawn carts and rental bicycles are readily available. For guided tours and small groups, choose an established outfitter like Woodland Travels.

Where to Eat or Drink: Try the grilled fish and fresh baked bread at Star Beans, located near Annanda Temple, and a little bit of everything (Burmese to burgers, plus free Wi-Fi) at Weather Spoon’s on the No. 5 Main Road.