An emerging island Eden in Indonesia
Executive summary by darmansjah
Raja
Ampat has been dubbed the Amazon of the Oceans. Is that hyperbole? Not
really. There are single reefs here containing more species than the entire Caribbean.
A mini-archipelago of rain-forest-clad islands, cays, mangroves, and
pearlescent beaches off the coast of West Papua, Indonesia,
this marine frontier brims with life. Expect close encounters with recent
discoveries such as Raja Ampat’s walking shark and pygmy seahorse, along with
more familiar creatures—manta rays, leatherback turtles, and bumphead
parrotfish. Not to mention three-quarters of all known coral species.
The scenery proves just as spectacular above the surface. On Wayag, steep
limestone karsts drenched in jungle bisect a cobalt lagoon. Tree canopies
filled with rare birds offer lofty theater. It’s well worth rising at 3 a.m. to
witness the amorous, flamenco-like mating dance of the endemic red bird of
paradise.
Remote doesn’t mean rough here. Cruise the region aboard an upscale
conversion of a traditional phinisi schooner or stay at a hideaway
such as Misool Eco Resort, with its swanky overwater bungalows. Diving is the
draw, but kayaking and trekking are picking up. This is nature at its most
vivid, above and below the water. —Johnny Langenheim
Travel Tips
When to Go: Late September through early June. Be aware
that mid-June through mid-September is monsoon season, with rains typically
contained to the afternoon.
Where to Stay: Exclusive Misool Eco Resort is
a secluded tropical hideaway on the remote, private island of Batbitim. Book
your personal water cottage-on-stilts (veranda stairs lead directly into the
translucent lagoon) to snorkel and dive in one of the world’s most biologically
diverse marine environments.
How to Get Around: Travel by boat from Sarong to Wasai.
Longboats, speedboats, motorboats, and dive boats connect Wasai to other
islands. Outside the resorts, on island travel is primarily by foot or ojek
(motorcycle taxi).
Where to Eat or Drink: If you’re not staying in an
all-inclusive resort or on a dive boat, Raja Ampat dining options are limited
to the small stores, outdoor markets, and warungs (family-run
cafés/stores) in Wasai, Raja Ampat’s capital. Another option is to stock up in
Sarong before traveling to Wasai.
What to Buy: In the established tourism villages Arborek
and Sauwandarek local women make and sell wood and orchid bark nokens
(string bags), pandan leaf hats and bags, and wood or banana fiber
skirts.
What to Read Before You Go: Raja Ampat
Through the Lens Of, by the Raja Ampat Research & Conservation Centre
(2009).This coffee table hardcover is a 288-photo journey above and through the
Realm of the Four Kings. Proceeds support local conservation efforts.
Fun Fact: On Raja Ampat’s Um Island, bats circle the blue
skies by day and seagulls take flight at night. The compact island (one lap
around takes about 15 minutes) is dotted with caves, home to the diurnal bats
that feast on ripe fruit.
Helpful Links: Indonesian Tourism
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