LOBSTER ROLL, MAINE

Executive summary By darmansjah

A SUMMER staple of the New England yacht set, the lobster roll combines both high-end and humble ingredients – lobster meat (around half a kilo), mixed with mayonnaise or butter, stuffed into an absurdly small hot dog bun.

ORIGIN Once so plentiful it was considered a poor man’s food, lobster got a makeover in the 19^th century when New England society women began to enjoy it in salad form, rather than doing the  work of cracking the shell themselves. In the early 20^th century, someone came up with the bright idea of pilling the lobster salad into a bun for easy eating, and the lobster roll was born. By the mid-20^th century, it was established as an essential part of a summer drive up Maine’s coastal highway.

TASTING A lobster roll is best enjoyed after a morning spent strolling and swimming at one of Maine’s pebbly beaches. Some lobster shacks are located on the outskirts of historic fishing villages or perched on top of pedestrian bridges. A good shack will always have a queue at lunchtime, but don’t be deterred. Order at the window, then stake out a picnic table as you wait for your number or name to be called. The overflowing lobster roll will arrive parked inside a tiny paper basket. Depending on the shack, your first bite may be warm and buttery, or cool and slick with mayo. Next comes the silkiness of the meat, the softness of the bun and the crunch of celery-together, they’re local taste of the summer.

FINDING IT Try the lobster at Red’s Eats in the town of Wiscasset in Maine, which has been in business since 1938 (around US$16 ; 00 1 207 882 6128).