Quintessential Kyoto

By John Ashburne, executive summary by darmansjah

When you’re done exploring the monuments and gardens of this former imperial capital the most refined cuisine in Japan awaits. But where to go? Here, an insider’s pick of Kyoto’s Top 10 Bets for an unforgettable meal.

It was born, wrote te ancient poets, as the city of celestial spirits, where temples outnumbered the gods and the very water that sprang from the earth was purer than the dew on the lotus leaves in the gardens of Nirvana. Its fame “spread to the four known corners of the teerestrial earth.”

Michelin-starred chef Kunio Tokuoka testing dashi stock in the kitchen of hana-Kitcho

Alas, somewhere here along the line, something got lost in translation. Although tens of millions of domestic tourists visit Kyoto annually to marvel at its temples and shrines, its stone gardens and geisha, and its impossibly elegant ryotei (traditional fine-dining restaurants), Japan’s ancient capital attracts a relatively scant number of foreign visitors. Most heinously, the great star in Kyoto’s cultural firmaments-its incredibly sophisticated and alluring food-has, until recently, passed beneath the global tourist radar.

The city’s signature cuisine is Kyo-ryori, a catch-all term that encompasses the sophisticated multicourse kaiseki and chakaiseki feasts associated with the tea ceremony, as well as the nuanced vegetarian fare that constitutes the Buddhist-in particular,Zen-culinary arts. Directly translated, it simply means “Kyoto Foods,” yet the phrase is synonymous with the ultimate in quality, service, refinement, omotenashi hospitality, and luxuriant style.

Kyo-ryori emerged from a unique combination of historical, artistic, and geographic factors factors. An abundance of natural spring water and fertile oils provided the essentials. However, the inland city’s remove from the ocean posed, in the centuries before refrigeration, a serious logistical problem. Kyoto chefs had to find new ways of salting, preserving, and pickling seafood, and using soybeans and local vegetables to satisfy the dietary demands of the ubiquitous Buddhist clergy. Thus, from its very outset, Kyo-ryori has been associated with innovation.

When, in 794, Japan’s imperial capital moved to Kyoto, the city’s kitchens and markets had to fullfil the needs of even more important customers-the emperor and his court. Despite the paucity of raw materials, chefs were obliged to produce new and evermore entertaining cuisine. As master chef “Toshio Murata of Kikunoi explains,” It was a difficult and dangerous business. If a cook’s dishes displeased the imperial retinue, it was ‘Off with his head!”

The threat of imminent decapitation proved an effective spur to culinary creativity, but it was gentler, more beign influence that was to move Kyo-ryori to even more exalted heights. The newly emerged aristocratic art of the tea ceremony demanded a culinary accompaniment that incorporated wabi-sabi, the Japanese aesthetic system that finds beauty in imperfection and impermanence. Thus was born chakaiseki, the beautifully crafted antecedent of all formal Kyo-ryori meals.

The Kamasu no Sugita Yaki at Kikunoi presetns grilled barracud on a plate with autumn leaves and a pice of burning cedar

Centuries later, Kyoto’s cuisine may have finally arrived on the international stage. In 2009, the Kyoto-Osaka Michelin Guide awarded 84 of the city’s Japanese restaurants the sum total of 109 stars, with six receiving the coveted three-star accolade. Earlier this year, another French taste maker, fashion house Louis Vuitton, went even farther with its first edition of the Louis Vuitton City Guide Kyoto/Nara (for which, it should be noted, I was a contribution writer), showcasing 90 eateries that reflect th city’s unique “ cultural DNA.”

And so it should be. But if I had to pick only 10 experiences that best exemplified the cuisine of Kyoto, my home for the past two decades, it would be these:

Savor The Season at Kikundi

Presided over by three-star Michelin chef Yoshihiro Murata, this exceptional ryotei is arguably the most famous restaurant in Japan, and an obligatory stop for any Kyoto-bound gourmet. Its tranquil tatami rooms are beautiful, many looking out onto Kikunoi’s gardens: the intimate Yakatabune room was designed by Murata himself to evoke the experience of dining on an hold-fashioned pleasure boat on nearby Lake Biwa.

Kikunoi, which has been in Murata’s family for three generations, is the epitome of refined luxury in everything from its bespoke lacquer ware to its delicate ikebana flower arrangements. But it is Murata’s beautifuly crafted kaiseki that has brought him much-deserved acclaim. Borne by kimono-clad waitresses, every element in the nine-or ten course banquet is perfectly matched to the seasons. On my latest visit, Kamasu no Sugiita Yaki, 1a 17th-century recipe for grilled barracuda that Murata himself rediscovered, made for an amazing autumn specialy. Presented on the plate with freshly fallen leaves and a pice of smoldering cedar, it recalled a picnic in the Kyoto forests of yore. 459 Shimogawara-cho, Kawaramachi-dori, Yasakatoriimae-sagaru, Higashiyama-ku; 81-75-561-0015; kikuno.jp; dinner for two from US$410

Explore Artisanal Cooking at Ryozanpaku

Dining at Ryozanpaku is like being invited into the home of an impossibly tasteful and wealthy friend. You enter through a carved wooden gate, walk across a stone path, slide back the shoji door, and pass into a realm of flower arrangements, gallery-worthy art, and wondrous food.

kaiware (cress) sushi at sushidokoro Man

In the case of Ryozanpaku, your host is the genial master chef Kenichi Hashimoto. His two-Michelin-star restaurant is named after teh legendary Chines mountain lair from which a band of righteous outlaws waged war against an evil regime. The only battle going on here, however, is for the captivation of your taste buds, everything, right down to the soy sauce, is handcrafted on the premises, where Hashimoto was born and raised. His home-turned-restaurant even boasts its own source of pure water, dubbed Izumidono (“His Highness, the Well”), for which the chef modestly credits his culinary success. The 15-dish hassun (the second course of a formal kaiseki meal in which the cehf expresses his full creative flair in a selection of hors d’oeuvres) is a visual and edible delight. But it  is Hashimoto’s signature misozuke-a magical, sake-infused mx of broiled scallops, mackerel, and white miso-that keeps Ryozanpaku regulars coming back for more. 5 Izumidono-cho, Yoshida, Skyo-ku;81-75-771-447; ryozanpaku.net; dinner for two from US$270.

Dine on Contemporary Kaiseki at Hana-Kitcho

For all that he bears an uncanny resemblance to the former bad boy of sumo wrestling Asashoryu, Kunio Tokuoka is as urbane and charismatic as celebrity chefs come. With four Michlein stars under his belt and a restaurant group founded by his grandfather to oversee (including an eponymous dining room in Singapore’s Resorts World Sentosa), Tokuoka still manages his Armani suit for his chef’s whites, he’s all business. He runs his kitchen with precision, issuing a multitude of orders and testing stock with a clearly practiced eye and palate.

salmon roe with simmered green chili leaves, part of  the hassun kaiseki course at Hana-Kitcho

Tokuoka rose to fame when he took over the legendary, stratospherically expensive, rigidly calssical Kitcho restaurant in Kyoto’s Arashiyama district. Hana-Kitcho, its chid younger sibling (complete with a checkerboard moss garden on the rooftop), sets the stage for Tokuoka’s contemporary take on Kyo-ryori, with uncoventional elements appearing on the menu and prices geared toward mere mortals. Don’t miss th unique shioya, a dish that features succulent, partially grilled prawns and seasonal fish served in a dome of slat. 3-2 Taiwa-cho, Yamato-oji Shijo-sagaru, Higashiyama-ku; 81-75-531-1500; kitcho.com;dinner for two from US$156.

Try Something Fishy at Ranmaru

Chef-owner Taiki Sato runs this fantastic, intimate restaurant near the Heian-jingu shrine in Kyoto’s Shogoin district. His specilaity is fish, be it grilled, steamed, deep-fried, or raw and supremely fresh. “I became  a chef because I can’t do anything else,’ he professes with a grin. And that’s just as well: in all the years I have been going to Ranmaru, i’ve yet to be disappointed.

This is the best place to sample nodoguro (literally, “black throat”), or tilefish, a Kyoto specialty known elsewhere in Japan as guji. It is excellent as sashimi or deep-fried. Nor should you miss the feather light termpura of wakasagi (ice fish) smlet or  the Ebi to Tako Escargot Fu-prawn and octopus baked and served with freshly toasted French bread in an secargot dish. Ranmaru also has a fine sake collection try the Kintsuru, a lovingly crafted brew from the island of Sado. 28-5 Sanno-cho, Shogoin, Skayo-ku; 81-75-761-7738; dinner for two from US$90.

Satiate Yoursef with Sushi at Sushidokoro Man

It is said that the finest sushi in the world can only be found among the legendary itamae (suhsi chefs) of Tokyo. So much for conventional wisdom. Sushidokoro Man is a true gem, tucked away in the relative obscurity of the Ebisugawa furniture district, just a couple blocks north of City Hall.

The restaurant’s cheeful owner, Akira Umehara, likes to keep thins low-key. He shuns the media, relying instead on word of mouth to publicize his small, elegant establishment. It’s proven a successful strategy. Reservations are essential here: Umehara’s sushi is some of the most sublime that I have ever tasted. Staples such as toro (fatty tuna belly), and tai (sea bream) are superb, but be sure to try some of his seasonal nigiri sushi, such as the shiroika-a species of white squid from Nagasaki-and pickled cress. The latter may sound mundane, but, in fact, ti is a gustatory revelation. Take that, Tokyo! 305 Tawaraya-cho, Ebisugawa-dori Yanaginobanba Higashi-iru, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75-223-3351; dinner for two from US$260.

Embrace the Feel at Kappo Nakagawa Shijo

Hamo-a.k.a. the daggertooth pike conger-is emblematic of Kyoto cuisine, and now here is this cel served with more loving care than at Kappo Nagawa Shijo. Chef Hikko Nakagawa pioneered eating hamo in the shabu-shabu style at his restaurant in the Gion district, and his son Masahiro Nakamura has continued the tradition for the last 18 years in the relatively informal setting of this branch in downtown Kyoto.

What really sets Kappo Nakagawa apart is the quality of its dashi, a characteristic stock of  konbu (kelp) and katsuo (bonito) shavings whose exact formula is a closely guarded secret. The hamo, which you simmer all so briefly in a hot pot of stock at your table, is ready when it curls into a white are of succulent fishy flesh. You can laso try it grilled over charcoal in the sumibiyaki style. Nishi Kiyamcahi-dori Shijo-sagaru, Shimogyo-ku; 81-75-352-3511; kappou-nakagwa.ecnet.jp; dinnar for two from US$170.

Taste the Tofu at Shoraian

During the Heian period, Arashiyama, a leafy district in the western outskirts of the city, was the playground of Kyoto’s nobility, who would gater here to attend moon-viewing parties, write elegiac verse and indulge in a spot of cormorant fishing. The area today is a mecca for domestic tourists, who swarm to its bamboo groves and the magnificense of Tenryu-ji temple. For the gourmet traveler, however, the real attraction is the tofu specialty restaurant Shoraian. Perched above the banks of the Oi River, this beautiful wooden building is owned by master calligrapher Fuyoh Kobayashi, who has filled the space with her graceful Zen inspired artwork.

The delicate, silken bean curd here is just as remarkable as the decor; explore it in all its varieties with the set tofu kaiseki. Reservations, especially during the autumn maple-viewing season, are essential, but hter’s no finer spot to kick back with a glass of sake and watch ther river flow by over a long, leisurely meal. Kanyuchi-nai, Saga Kameno’o-cho, Ukyo-ku; 81-75-861-0123; only open for dinner on weekend; lunch for two from US$80.

Explore Nishiki Market

To to locals, it is Kyo-no-daidokoro, or “Kyoto’s Kitchen,” and the Nishiki-koji Ichiba market arcade has existed on this central site since 1615, serving the inexhaustible appetites of the imperial court and the high-end ryotei restaurants. A visit here is a must, as the full span of Kyoto food culture is represented in the family-run businesses that line the narrow, covered alleyway that runs for 300 meters between Takakur Road and the Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine. Highlights include the local pickles at Uchida Tsukemono (free samples available); the knives and kitchenware at the legendary Arisugu: the gourmet vegetables on offer at Kanematsu; and the inexpensive, freshly grilled shelfish at Daiyasu.

This is one spot where eating on the hoof is tolerated in Japan, though many of the shops also provide takeaway bento boxes. And if you fancy a sit-down meal, the oyako-donburi (rice topped with chicken and egg) at Maruki Shokudo canteen is excellent, and a steal at around US$8. also recommended is Yaoya no Nikai, a restaurant above Kanematsu that serves a set lunch made with locally sourced heirloom vegetables such as Shogoin daikon, Kujonegi leeks, and Kamonasu aubergines. Kyoto-niskhiki.or.jp; stalls open from 9a.m. to 5 p.m.

Order Noodles Fit for Royalty at Honke Owariya

Famed for its soba, this Kyoto institution dates back to 1465, and is reportedly Emperor Akhito’s favorite spot for a bowl of buckwheat noodles when in town. Another of Kyoto’s specialities, nishin soba (noodles in broth topped with cured herring), is in fine form here. Better still, order the signature hourai soba, en elaborate dish presented with shiitake mushrooms, sliced egg, sesame horseradish, seaweed, leek, deep-fried prawns, and grated whiet radish,. 322  Kuramaya-cho Jijo, Nkagyo-ku; 81-75-231-3446; honke-owariya.co.jp; the hourai soba will set you back US$27.

Sip Gourmet Green Tea at Ippodo

Ippodo has been retailing the finest green teas in Kyoto for nearly three centuries, its name synonyomous with the highest quality and service. At the mai nstore’s Kaboku Tearoom, even the most discerning of tea connoisseurs will find plenty to delight in, while helpful staff are on hand to guide novices through the brewing and tasting process. Start with the simple Kaboku sencha ata about US$9, then, if you are feeling adventurous and deep-pocketed, splash out on the tenka-ichi gyokuro (US$23). The name of this aromatic decoction means “the finest under heaven,” and you’ll soon know why, Termachi-dori Nijo, Nakagyoku;81-75-211-3421;ippodo-tea.co.jp

Getting There

Kyoto’s international gateway is the Kansai International Airport Outside Osaka, a 75 minute train ride away. If you’re coming from Tokyo, bullet trains leave Tokyo Station every 30 minutes, and arrive in Kyoto two and a half hours later.

Where to Stay

Hyatt Regency Kyoto, the town’s top Western-Style hotel, 644-2 Sanjusangendo-mawari; Higashiyama-ku; 81-75-541-1234; kyoto.regency.hyatt.com; doubles from US$325

The Screen, Ryokan-meets-modern design hotel at this 13-room gem.640-1 Shimogory omae-cho. Nakagyo-ku; 81-75-252-1113 screen-hotel.jp; doubles from US$387