Executive summary by darmansjah
Crowned by a spectacular castle, and centred on an elegant
old town square, Český Krumlov is a pocket-sized Prague. Renaissance and
baroque buildings enclose the meandering arc of the Vltava river, housing
riverside cafés and bars. Following architectural neglect during the communist
era, the undeniable fairy-tale beauty of Český Krumlov is radiant again, with
thoughtful restoration transforming the heritage buildings lining the narrow
lanes into cosy restaurants and classy boutique hotels.
After earning a spot on Unesco’s World Heritage List in
1992, Český Krumlov has become the Czech Republic’s second busiest tourist town
after Prague. Visit in summer and it may feel like a theme park, with street
performers punctuating every corner, and tour buses overwhelming the car parks.
But come a few months either side of July and August and the narrow lanes and
footbridges will be (slightly) more subdued and secluded. Floating lazily down
the river will still be possible, and you’ll experience a more authentic
old-world charm.
If you’re willing to forego languid days on the Vltava,
winter is the most enchanting time of all, with the castle blanketed in snow as
pine smoke from chimneys wafts across the river.
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