Executive summary by darmansjah
‘O island of rugged
and white shores / appearing in our dreams, washed in foam of the sun /
Transgressing noisy waves, spreading enchanted blue / As far as the eye can see.’
Ive Mirosevic Barcos, poet.
With more than a thousand islands scattered along Croatia’s
coastline, a sailing trip here is one of the great maritime experience. But there’s
plenty to draw you inland too; forests, riverside villages and historic
architecture.
Fly into Frankfurt or Munich before connecting to Split’s
Kastela or Resnik Airport with Croatia
Airlines
Split’s medieval streets are best explored on foot, but
there is a good local bus network connecting the city to outlying districts. Download
maps and timetables at Find-Croatia.Com
The Croatian tourist board website also has useful
information : www.croatia.hr or further
reading on Lonely Planet’s Croatia guide includes a chapter on Split and the
island of Central Dalmatia.
Diocletian’s Palace
is one of the world’s most impressive Roman ruins, with soaring arches and
towers. And far from being a deserted monument, it is a living complex filled
with shops, restaurants, bars and churches (free).
Family-run Hotel Jupiter has rooms ranging
from dorms sleeping up to 10 to doubles with shared bathrooms. And the location
is unbeatable, near Diocletan’s mausoleum in the palace complex (from US$45).
For a good, quick meal, do as the locals do and grab a burek
– a delicious heavy pastry stuffed with meat or cheese and served with yoghurt –
along wit ha typically strong Croatian coffee at the Burek Bar (from US$2.50; Domaldova 13).
In warm weather, Luxor
Cafe sets up cushions on the 1,700-year old steps of the main square in
Diocletian’s Palace, so you can relax with a coffee or a cocktail while
listening to the live music usually playing nearby (Sv. Ivana 11, Peristil).
The Archaeological Museum north of the city
centre is the oldest in Croatia, focusing on the Roman and early Christian era,
including a look at excavations in nearby Salona, th former Roman capital of
Dalmatia (US$3.50).
On a quiet residential street 15 minutes’ walk from the old
city and harbor is Hotel Consul, with smart rooms and
a terrace restaurant. It provides a bit of peace away from the busy city nearby
(from US$155).
If you’re looking for traditional Dalmatian dining, the
atmospheric Konoba Kod Jose might
just be what you’re after, with its candlelit interior, and an excellent
seafood and pasta-based menu (mains from US$9.50; Sredmanuska 4).
The very cool Ghetto
Club attracts an arty crowd wit hits colourful murals painted on the walls
and intimate, underground feel. Stay in the brightly decorated indoor bar or
enjoy a drink in the relaxed centuries-old courtyard (Dosud 10).
Attending a performance at the Croatian National Theatre
will not only give you a chance to see high-quality ballet and opera, but will
allow you to experience the theatre’s grand architecture as intended (from
US$9.50).
The Vestibul Palace is tucked in next
to the Emperor’s Chambers in the heart of Diocletian’s Palace. The setting may
be ancient, but this boutique hotel offers the latest in designer style (rooms
from US$170).
The creation of popular local chef Zlatko Marinovic, Nostromo has an intimate,
art-lined interior, and its location by the fish market means it serves the
freshest seafood in town (mains from US$19).
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