Africa’s new frontier
Executive summary by darmansjah
Uganda,
once the cornerstone of Africa’s Grand Tour, is today bypassed by most
visitors. The nation and its people have been brutalized by dictators, battered
by warlords, and negatively portrayed by viral videos. Safarigoers line up in
next-door Kenya
and Tanzania,
with only a few coming to Uganda to see the famed mountain gorillas.
The land mixes savanna, enormous lakes, rain forests, and the glacier-clad
Rwenzori Mountains, one of Africa’s tallest ranges. The headwaters of the Nile
originate here, then burst through a cleft in the rocks at Murchison Falls.
Uganda’s parade of animals is amazingly diverse. Hippos graze along the shores
of Lake Edward in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, while lions lounge in the
trees of Ishasha, in Queen Elizabeth National Park. The star in Bwindi is the
mountain gorilla, a species down to about 720 animals visible in their tiny
habitat.
Uganda has tough decisions ahead. Oil lies beneath the Rift Valley, right
inside Murchison Falls National Park. Extraction seems inevitable. But tourism
dollars could provide an easier coexistence between banana-loving gorillas and
banana farmers in Bwindi. —David Swanson
Travel Tips
When to Go: The best times are during the drier seasons,
January-March and June-August.
Where to Stay: Embark on guided boat trips, hikes, and
safaris from rustic Jacana
Safari Lodge on Lake Nyamusingire (Uganda’s largest crater lake) in Queen
Elizabeth National Park, or from thatched-roof Mihingo Lodge on the
secluded edge of Lake Mburo National Park.
How to Get Around: Public and private transportation
options include minibuses, taxis, luxury coaches, rental cars, and inland
ferries. Tour
operators can arrange travel for day trips, safaris, and complete
itineraries.
Where to Eat or Drink: In Kampala, head to Nalongo in
suburban Katwe for traditional luwombo: a mixture of meat, vegetables,
and (sometimes) peanut butter steamed in banana leaves. Funky Mish Mash in Kololo
serves an all-day breakfast in a laid-back art gallery-tree house-café-garden
setting.
What to Buy: Local crafts, including mats and baskets
handwoven from elephant grass and palm leaves, are sold along roadsides and at
outdoor markets.
What to Watch Before You Go: The
Last King of Scotland (2007). The fictionalized chronicle of
the rise and fall of brutal dictator Idi Amin was the first feature film
completely shot on location in Uganda. Forest Whitaker’s chilling portrayal of
Amin earned an Academy Award and Golden Globe.
Fun Fact: Small farms employ four out of every five
Ugandans. Using mainly traditional, chemical-free methods, an estimated 200,000
organic farmers produce fresh matooke (plantain), pineapple, apple
bananas, and ginger for local use and international export.
Helpful Links: Uganda Tourism Board
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