Best For: Families and groups with disparate skiing abilities
Executive summary by darmansjah
Whitefish, a former logging and railroad town of more than 6,000 near the
entrance to Glacier National Park, has been quietly delivering glitz-free Montana
skiing for over half a century. Despite a recent influx of Mercedes and fur
coats, the town has managed to maintain its appealingly rough-hewn character.
The newly rechristened Whitefish Mountain Resort, the resort formerly known as
Big Mountain, looms invitingly above the bars and restaurants of the
Western-style downtown, which is anchored by Whitefish’s historic train
station. About 15 percent of Whitefish’s winter visitors arrive via daily train
service, which, combined with the free skier shuttle that connects town to
mountain, makes car-free trips here easy.
Whitefish the ski area lives up to
its family-friendly billing with good first-timer terrain and an abundance of
long, wide-open, roller coaster groomers where skiers and snowboarders of all
abilities can get their superhero on. A high-speed quad speeds to the
mountain’s summit, which is often engulfed in clouds and studded with thickly
rimmed, white trees known as “snow ghosts.” The ghosts make for atmospheric
glade skiing. Experts will find ample pockets of steep and deep terrain,
including an abundance of backwoods tree skiing on the mountain’s less visited
north side. Crowds are rarely a problem anywhere on the mountain. On clear
days, views from the Summit House cafeteria into Glacier are stunning.
Ask a Local
Ski patroller and fly-fishing guide Ryan Friel is a 17-year
resident of Whitefish and one of the founding editors of the Whitefish
Review literary journal. Here are his recommendations.
Best Digs
Budget: Hibernation House, on the mountain, is dirt cheap, with breakfast
included.
Swank: The Lodge at Whitefish Lake has ice-skating on the lake and a hot tub
near shore with views of the mountain.
Best Eats
Cheap: At the Buffalo Cafe, you can split any of the buffalo pies, a
breakfast delight of hashbrowns, ham, cheese, and eggs (with no buffalo meat),
and still feel like you had a meal.
Gourmet: Tupelo Grille has a great dinner menu: chicken and dumplings, a
phenomenal wine selection, and a bread pudding that’s not to be overlooked.
Best After-Ski Party Spot
Don’t miss the local flair at the on-mountain Bierstube: good bar food,
cheap drinks, and the vibe that says ápres.
Best Rest-Day Activity
Go shopping in Whitefish’s pedestrian-friendly, vibrant downtown and take
tours of the Great Northern Brewery.
Whitefish’s Classic Run
The world-class groomers always make Inspiration and Big Ravine cruising
delights. Advanced skiers should head for the East Rim and the Picture Chutes
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