Hiker: Will Harlan, ultra-endurance runner and writer
Executive summary by darmansjah
This route was the original ultra that Micah True (aka Caballo Blanco) ran
with the Tarahumara before moving the race to the more accessible gravel roads
of Urique. The trail climbs 5,000 feet from the desert floor to the forested
canyon rim, crossing gurgling arroyos and offering literally breathtaking
canyon vistas. The steep, quad-crushing descent down to the Batopilas River
offers equally stunning scenery. The river-carved Copper Canyon is deeper than
the Grand Canyon but without a single trail sign or marker. I learned that
lesson the hard way on my first hike, getting lost, drinking Giardia-infested
water, and being held up by AK-47-wielding drug runners. —Will Harlan
Length: 30 miles
The Details: Yes, Copper Canyon is larger than the Grand
Canyon, but it’s a bit of a misnomer—it’s a system of six major river-carved
canyons in Chihuahua that include everything from pure wilderness to villages
inhabited by the native Tarahumara people to a railroad running down in the
middle of them.
This typically three-day trip—unless you are running like Micah True and
Will Harlan—connects the two local communities of Urique, a sleepy town almost
free of tourists, and Batopilas, a former silver mining hot spot that’s about a
five-hour bus ride from the larger town of Creel. In between, the trail dips
into the best of what these canyons have to offer: It winds through steep
sandstone walls and past massive agave plants (as well as wandering near a
ghost town and the occasional wild burro). As it grunts to the top of the
canyon, the trail opens up for a view that has none of the busloads of gawkers
and interpretive signage of the better known canyon across the border. You do
need to be careful, both of the danger of bandits and, more likely,
dehydration. Water is stunningly beautiful when it comes cascading into this
desert—but stock up on it when you find it.
When to Go: Late fall (October-November) or early spring
(March-April), when the temperatures don’t get too hot
About Harlan: In 2009, Will Harlan (aka El Chivo, "the
goat") won the legendary Ultramarathon Caballo Blanco 50-mile race in
Mexico’s Copper Canyon, an experience that is documented in the forthcoming
film El Chivo. No gloating champion, his victory showed both his
athletic prowess and a sensitivity and connection to the people who have lived
in the canyons for centuries. The editor of Blue Ridge Outdoors, Harlan lives
on a sustainable farm in North Carolina. He's also five-time champion of the
40-mile Mount Mitchell Challenge and holds the record for the fastest
unsupported crossing of the Appalachian Trail through Great Smoky Mountains
National Park.
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