Whatever the time of day, you can feast at a street stall,
open-air market or top restaurant in Bangkok. The local cuisine gets its influences
from Thailand’s geography, the royal kitchens and the Chinese and Muslim
minorities.
Shophouse Restaurants
Naaz
Shophouse restaurants are the most common type you’ll find
in the city, Naaz (pronounced Nat),
is a tiny Thai-Muslim place hidden in a nondescript alleyway, and it serves
some of the city’s richest kow mok gai (chicken
biryan). Various daily specials include chicken masala and mutton korma (24/9
Sol 45, Th Charoen Krung; closed Sun; mins from US$1.30).
Chote Chitr
This third-generation shophouse restaurant off Th Tanao with
just six tables is a Bangkok food landmark. The kitchen can be inconsistent and
the service consistently grumpy, but when they’re on, dishes such as the mee grorp (a former loyal palace recipe
of crispy fried noodles with a sweet and sour flavor) and yam tooa ploo (winged bean salad) are in a class of their own (146
Th Phraeng Phuton; 11am-10pm; mains from US$1.10).
Hemlock
Taking full advantage of its cosy shophouse location in
Banglamphu, this perennial favourite doesn’t skimp on flavor or presentation.
The eclectic menu reads like an ancient literary work reviving old dishes from
aristocratic kitchens across the country. Try the flavourful mee-ang kam – wild tea leaves wrapped
around ginger, shallots, peanuts, lime and shredded coconut (56 Th Phra Athit;
4pm-12am; mains from US2.30).
Street food
Pa Aew
It’s a bare bones open-air curry stall with trays of dishes
on show, but if we’re talking taste, Pa Aew is our favourite place to eat in
the historical centre. Pull up a plastic stool for rich, seafood-heavy dishes
such as pat chah look chin blah (freshwater fish dumplings fried with fresh
herbs). It’s located near the corner with Soi Pratu Nokyung (Th maha Rat;
9am-3pm; mains from US$0.80).
Jay So
This crumbing shack is living proof that, where authentic
Thai food is concerned, ambience comes second to taste. Fittingly, Jay So has
no menu as such, but serves ballistically spicy som-dam (green papaya salad),
sublime herb-stuffed grilled catfish and other isan (northeastern)
specialities. Look for the shack decorated with Pepsi logos about halfway down
Soi phipat in Tahon silom district (146/1 soi Phipat 2; 11am-4pm; mains from
US$0.80).
Or Tor Kor Market
Bangkok’s highest-quality fruit and agricultural market
brings sights such as toddler-sized mangoes and pots full of curries. Most
goods are takeaway only, but a small food court and a few informal restaurant
exist. Head to Rot Det for stir-fries and curries, and Sat Jai Kai Yaang, just
south of the market, which does spicy northeastern food. Take the MRT to
Kamphaeng Phet Station and exit on the other side from Chatuchak (Th Kamphaeng
Phet; 8am-6pm; mains from US$1.10).
Upscale Restaurant
Nahm
Australian chef-author David Thompson is behind what is
quite possibly the best Thai restaurant in Bangkok. Inspired by ancient
cookbooks, Thompson has revived dishes such as smoked fish cury with prawns,
chicken livers, cockles and black pepper (
comhotels.com;
Metropolitan Hotel, 27 Th Sathon Tai; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner daily; set lunch
from US$40, set dinner from US$65).
Bo.Lan
Bo.Lan was
started up by Bo and Dylan, two former chefs at the London branch of Nahm,
which gained a Michelin star before it closed. The chefs take a scholarly
approach to Thai cuisine, resulting in full-flavoured dishes such as
Korat-style beef curry. Book in advance (
bolan.co.th;
42 Soi Phichai Ronnarong Songkhram, Soi 26, Th Sukhumvit; dinner Tue-Sun; a la
carte dishes from US$13; set menu US$73.30).
Sra Bua
Helmed by a Thai dan a Dane, Sra Bua takes a correspondingly
international approach to Thai food. Putting Thai ingredients and dishes
through the wringer of molecular gastronomy, the chefs have crated dishes such
as frozen red curry with lobster and lychee. Reservations are recommended (
kempinski.com; Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9
Th RamaI; lunch and dinner; lunch mains from US$27.70, set meals from
US$73.30).
Transport
Budget airlines such as
Jetstar,
Scoot and Tigerair fly direct to Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport
(from US$250;
jetstar.com). Other airlines
include
Singapore Airlines, Thai
Airways, Malaysia Airlines and Cathay Pacific. Bangkok’s airport is 16 miles
east of the city; you can get a train into town for US$1.50, or the express service
which costs US$3.30 but is less busy. Bankok’s taxis are some of the best value
cabs on Earth (US$1.30 for the first 2km), but walk away if the driver
refuses
to use the meter. Other options
are MRT trains (
bangkokmetro.co.th)
and public buses (
bmta.co.th).
Where To Stay
Despite the name,
Lamphu
Treehouse has its feet firmly on land. Guests are housed in a quiet and
attractive canal-side building or in a new annexe a few blocks away (
lamphutreehotel.com; 155 Wanchat
Bridge, Th Prachatipatai; from US$48.90).
Siam Heritage is
a boutique hotel with homey Thai charm. The 73 rooms are decked out in silk and
dark woods with thoughtful design touches, and there’s an inviting rooftop pool
(
thesiamheritage.com; 115/1 Th
Surawong; from US$81.40).
Located behind a virtual wall of frangipani,
Ariyasomvilla is a beautifully
renovated ‘40s-era Villa. Demand is high for the 25 spacious and meticulously
outfitted rooms (
ariyasom.com; 65
Sukhumvit Soi 1, Th Sukhumvit, from US$205).
What’s on the menu
Some must-eat dishes you might spot in Bangkok : Yam blah duk foo Fried shredded
catfish, chilli and peanuts with a mango dressing. Gaang Som Sour with freshwater fish, vegetables and herbs. Plah Hang Dried fish with sugar and
crispy deep-fried shallots served on top of slices of watermelon. Ka-nom beuang Refined taco-like snacks
that can be either sweet or savoury. Mee
grop Crispy noodles with a sweet and sour flavor. Pad thai thin-rice noodles stir-fried with dried or fresh shrimp,
bean sprouts, tofu, egg and seasonings, now eaten across the world.
Chatuchak Weekend
Market draws tens of thousands each weekend to buy anything from antiques to
live snakes. It’s a great place to grab some snacks too. Arrive around 9am to
avoid the crowds and heat (
chatuchak.org).
LonelyPlanet’s Bangkok is a comprehensive guide to the city and
chapters are available to download at
lonelyplanet.com
while Pocket Bangkok is ideal for shorter stopovers. See eatingthaifood.com for
a wealth of information on Thai food, including a free guide to 50 dishes to
try in Bangkok. Thai food by David Thompson (pavilion book) is an authoritative
book on Thai cooking.