Best For: Off-the-beaten-path powder hounds with an aversion to
glamour
Executive summary by darmansjah
A former gold-mining town carved out of the forest at the foot of the famed
Chugach Mountains, Girdwood has refashioned itself into Alaska’s
premier ski town. Hippies and ski bums flocked here in the 1970s and, a
luxury hotel at the ski area’s base notwithstanding, its laid-back,
frontier-style ambience remains intact. Many roads are unpaved and Carhartt
clothing is a popular fashion choice. Situated about 40 miles south of
Anchorage (and its international airport), life in this humble hamlet of 2,000
revolves around skiing and snowboarding.
Rising up from the edge of town, Alyeska
Resort is the largest ski area in Alaska. It has six lifts, two magic
carpets, and a 60-person tram that climbs the mountain’s steep north face with
views to the ocean. Tree line is low this far north, so the upper half of the
mountain is wide-open alpine, more like the open terrain of the Alps than a typical
American resort. There are ample blue runs and a smattering of beginner runs
near the base, but experts will get the most out of the mountain. If you’re not
afraid of a little in-bounds hiking, the ridges near Alyeska peak harbor an
array of vertiginous chutes.
As you would expect in Alaska, crowds are nonexistent. There is also
real-deal Chugach heli- and cat-skiing available right from Alyeska’s base
area. Best to visit in March, when there is an average of 12 hours of daylight,
though lifts keep running through April and on weekends in May.
Ask a Local
Girdwood native Elyse Saugstad is a professional skier and
the 2008 freeride world champion. Here are her recommendations.
Best Digs
Budget: The Alyeska Hostel is close to the resort. What it lacks in frills,
it makes up for in flavor. It’s been around since 1980 and has a lot of
history.
Swank: The Hotel Alyeska is the resort-owned hotel. It's really nice, has
great dining, and they'll even do a wake-up call for the northern lights. Step
right out your door and onto the tram.
Best Eats
Cheap: Coast Pizza, at the entrance of Girdwood, has quick slices of pie and
one of the best grilled sandwiches around.
Gourmet: The Double Musky Inn is a Cajun-cuisine restaurant for people who
like to eat meat. Not only are the fillets the size of your head, they are
cooked perfectly. And the gumbo is to die for. Really.
Best After-Ski Party Spot
The Sitzmark, at the bottom of the mountain, is the classic ski bar that's
survived all the changes of the resort through the years. It has the perfect
mix of food, booze, live music, a constant rotation of ski movies playing on TV
screens, and a killer sundeck for the springtime when it warms up.
Best Rest-Day Activity
Head into Anchorage—the “city” in Alaska—that has a plethora of options and
is only 45 minutes away.
Girdwood’s Classic Ski Run
Try the north face from Christmas Chute to the bottom. It's the leg burner
of the century when it's a deep powder day, which is quite often with the
amount of snowfall Alyeska receives.
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