The Icon
Executive summary by darmansjah
MOSCOW’S RED SQUARE
(Krasnaya Ploshchad) is known for its political symbolism but was actually
named for its loveliness: Krasnaya,
or ‘red,’ meant ‘beautiful’ in old Russian. The plaza has drawn crowds since it
was a 14,000s shantytown. Russians know the square as the front yard of rulers
from Ivan the Terrible to Vladimir Putin. Westerners are apt to recall the Cold
War’s lock-stepping armies. Along with Moscow’s great architectural jewels,
including the crenellated Kremlin walls and St.Basil’s onion domes, Red Square
remains the beating heart of Russia. (in iPad Edition: view a 360-degree
panorama of Moscow’s Red Square).
GEOMETRIC Red
Square is actually a rectangle sprawling 800,000 square feet
ACCIDENTAL TOURIST
in 1987, Mathias Rust penetrated Soviet airspace in an attempt to land his
Cessna on the square using only a street map to navigate. He landed on a nearby
bridge to avoid hitting tourists gathered at the landmark.
INTENATIONAL TERROIST
In December 2003 a suicide bomber (and widow of a Chechen rebel) blew herself
up at the entrance to the square, killing five other people.
ARCHITECTURAL REDO
Two of the square’s masterpieces are just 20 years old. The Kazan Cathedral,
blown up by Joseph Stalin in 1936, was rebuilt from old blueprints after the
collapse of the Soviet state. The Resurrection Gates, removed in 1931 so tank
could enter, were restored in 1994
RIP The body of
Vladimir Lenin, the Soviet Union’s first dictator who died in 1924, has been on
display since 1930 in the granite tomb that flanks the square. His mummy is
swabbed weekly with bleach to fight discoloring and mold.
I SPY Perched
atop the Kremlin walls, the brick Tsar’s Tower may look like the top of a
fairytale castle, but it has ominous origins. Five centuries ago, Ivan the
Terrible spied on his subjects from the tower (formerly a wooden turret).
RED TAG SALE The
square’s Victorian Gosudarstvenny Universalny Magazin mall (GUM) opened in 1893
with more than 1,000 shops. Today it’s an outlet for luxury goods.
BACK IN THE USSR
Many Soviet leaders are buried in a Kremlin cemetery. Lesser mortals who share
that resting place include John Reed 91887-1920), an American journalist who documented
the Soviet Union’s birth and died there, and 238 Bolshevik soldiers buried in a
massive grave.
STATUE OF LIMITATIONS
Despite being the country’s symbolic center, the square has only one statue. It
depicts Kuzma Minin and Prince Dmitry Pozharsky, two patriots who defeated
invading Poles in 1612.
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