Executive summary by Darmansjah
Dante, Petrach and Boccaccio waxed lyrical about Tuscan
wine, Sample Brunello di Montalcino and Sassicaia in sleek wine bars, renowned
wineries and centuries-old estates to see what they meant.
Wineries
Castelo Di Ama,
Chianti
The highly reagarded Castello di Ama wine estate near Gaiole
produces a delicious Chianti Calssico as well as Showcasing the work of some
the world’s best-known sculptors such as Anish Kapor in its formal gardens.
There are guided tours of the cellar, villa and gardens by appointment (castellodiama.com; Apr-Oct; tour and
tastings US$13.80).
Badia A Passignano,
Chianti
This 11th-century abbey, located three miles west
of Montefioralle, is owned by the Antinoris, one of Tuscany’s most prestigious
winemaking families. Tehre are guided visits to the vineyards and cellars,
including a daily tour that ends with a tasting of four signature Antinori
wines, plus lunch or dinner in its Michelin starred restaurant. There is also a
wine shop (osteriadipassignano.com;
daily wine tasting tour US$212).
Tenuta La Chiusa,
Elba
Upon being exiled to the island of Elba in 1814, Napoleon
stayed at Tenuta la Chiusa, a walled estate by the sea. He chose well, this 18th-century
villa with vineyards and olive groves is Elba’s oldest winemaking estate. You
can taste the wines it produces, including a sweet, red Aleatico dessert wine,
and there are apartments if you overindulge (tenutalachiusa.it; Localita Magazzini,
93; tastings US$21, including three wines).
Wine Bars
Gustavino, Florence
The place to relish Tuscan cuisine, Gustavino restaurant’s
well-stocked cellar offers a choice of more than 800 different labels. Pair
Terricci from the restaurant’s own winery with creative entrees of pecorino and
pear tortelli, stewed cuttlefish and eggplants parmigiana (gustavino.it; via della Condotta, 37R; Rosso
della Lanciola US$4.20 a glass).
Costiccio, Montalcino
Montacino is the home of one of the world’s greatest wines.
Brunello di Montaicino, and the launch of the new vintage each Februray is
eagerly awaited. Enoteca Osteria Osticcio has a selection of Brunello and its
more modest, but very palatable, sibling Rosso di Montaicino. After a tasting,
claim a table upstairs for a glass of wine accompanied by a cheese and meat
platter or a meal (osticcio.it; Via
Matteotti, 23; tasting of three Brunellos US$19.80).
Enoteca Tognoni,
Bolgheri
Bolgheri is home to Sassicaia, a ‘Super Tuscan’ wine revered
by the international press. And there’s no better place to try it than at this
high-profile wine bar on the pretty central square. Wines of the day are
chalked on the board outside, Sassicaia always featuring along with 40 or so
wines totaste by the glass. A plate of its mixed crostini makes the perfect
accompaniment (enotecatognoni.it;
Via Lauretta, 5; wine from US$11.40 for 100ml, Sassicaia US$31 for 100ml).
Wine Roads
Strada Del Vino E
Dell’Olio
Begin this 90-mile route in Livorno and head south through a
hinterland of medieval villages and vineyards. Great tasting stops include San
Guido and Blogheri, from where it is a wiggly 12 miles further south to
Sassetta (stay at la Cerreta, a pretty agriturismo; lacerreta.it). next day, focus on Val di
Cornia DOC wines in Suvereto (lastradadelvino.com).
Strada Del Vino E Dei
Sapori Colli Di Maremma
Unlike chianti, the treasures of Maremma have only recently
been discovered, so it’s still a peaceful region to explore. This wine route
ranges from the sea to the slopes of Monte Amiata. The highlights are its DOC
and DOCG wines: Capalbio, Parrina, Sovana, Morellino di Scansano, Ansonica
Costa dell’ Argentario and Bianco di Pitigliano (stradavinimaremma.it).
Strada Del Vino
Montepulciano
Montepulciano is home to the much-lauded Vino Nobile, which
makes a fabulous pairing with the local Chianina beef. Get advice on the best
places to experience such parings at the Strada del Vino Montepulciano office
in Plazza Grande. Here, you can also book tours and courses: including a walk
through vineyards and olive groves, culminating in a tasting of Vino Nobile (stradavinobile.it).
Tuscany essentials
Transport
There are no direct non-stop flights from Singapore to
Tuscany, but Lufthansa, Swiss, Air France, KLM and British Airways flights are
available. You can reach the wine regions by train or bus: SITA operates
services from Florence to Greve in Chianti (60 mins; US$4.80; sitabus.it), and you can get a train to Siena
from Florence, then a bus to Montepulciano. For the most flexibility and access
to the wine regions, hire a car (from
US$49 per day; avis.co.uk).
Where To Stay
Fattoria di Rignana
has all you will need for the perfect Chianti experience – an historic setting,
giorious views, a large pool and proximity to a good local cantina. Choose
between swish rooms in the 17th-century villa or rustic rooms in the
farmhouse (rignana.it; Via di Rignana, 15;
fro mUS$155).
Podere Riparbella
is an ecologically sustainable estate near Massa Marittima. The Swiss owners
cultivate grapes and olives and make jams (riparbella.com;
Localita Sopra Pian di Mucini; from US$228, including a 4-course evening meal).
Set amid working sheep farms in Val d’Orcia, la Bandita is a
rural retreat with luxury touches, such as in-room bathubs, an infinity pool,
free cappuccinos and wine. It makes a teat base for exploring Montepulciano and
Montaicino (la-bandita.com; from US$277).
The Know How
Tuscan Wines
Brunello di
Montaicino the product of sangiovese grapes grown south of Siena, this wine
must spend at least two years in Oak. Intense and complex, it’s best best
paired with game, wild boar and roats. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Prugnolo gentile grapes form the backbone
of this revered drop. Its intense but delicate nose and dry, slightly tannic
taste make it the perfect match for red meat and cheese. ‘Super Tuscans’ When Chianti got its cehap reputation in the ‘70s,
some winemakers gegan making rich, complex wines that followed the New World
tradition of blending. These wines, including Sasiccaia, Solaia and Luce – were
dubbed Super Tuscans. Chianti
Cherry, dry and full, produced from sangiovese and a mix of other grape varieties.
Chianti Classico has a DOCG guarantee of quality.
Top Tip
Exploring Chianti by bike is a delight, allowing you to
enjoy both tastings and the countryside. Rent bikes in Greve in Chianti (ramuzzi.com; US$28 per day) or take a cycling
tour from Florence, with lunch at a winery (ibikeflorence.com; US$114).
Lonely Planet’s Florence & Tuscany (US$24.40) is a
detailed guide to the region, and chapters can be download at lonelyplanet.com (US$4.80). Food blog
luculliandelights.com is written by a Swedish food photographer living in
Tuscany. EM Forster based where Angels Fears to Tread (US$9.80; Penguin
Classics) in San Gimignano and Michael Ondaatje’s The English Patient
(US$14.60; Bloomsbury Publishing) is partly set in a villa outside Florence.
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